🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. But, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states a proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.